High Demand Paint Coatings for Each Job
The right kind of coating is vital. If you select the wrong paint, it won't matter how much effort and money you may spend on your project. Too many perfectly great paint jobs deteriorate quickly because poor quality primer and paint were used.
A dependable rule of thumb is to match the existing finish. If you're painting or staining over a latex paint, recoat with latex. You might have a variety of choices if the material is uncoated, but you still need to consider local climate, maintenance, and sturdiness to find the best coating for the work.
How We Improved Our Painting With Primers
Primer is the unsung hero of any quality paint job. It establishes how well the finish is protected and exactly how long the paint can last. Knowing when to use primers trips up painters about just as much as which primers to utilize. Basically, you need to use a primer when you are coating a new or bare surface; changing colors, textures, or finishes; or making a surface more even. About the one time you don't have to prime is if you are recoating with the same paint and finish over a solid paint, for example, a flat latex paint over another flat latex paint.
To make sure of compatibility, choose something that's part of your paint system. By paint system I am saying a primer and top coating distributed by the same company. Labels of better paints always recommend specific primers and top coatings for various materials and conditions. If you don't want to cope with reading the fine print, ask to see the spec, or data sheet, on a particular primer. In case a spec sheet isn't available, ask to see what's known as a “specifier’s guide,” although these guides probably have more information than you will ever need and you may want help translating a few of the terms and specifications.
Primers form a solid base for the top coats by penetrating, sealing, and bonding to all or any types of bare surfaces. Without first priming a new or reconditioned surface, you will discover that the top coats end up flaking off much earlier than you would expect. While you can use additives such as Emulsabond, don't make the error of convinced that primers are optional, or can be made out of diluted paint.
Usually in a single coat most primers smooth out surfaces and places which have been scraped and sanded. Sometimes a surface will require a second coat of primer to ensure an even undercoat, but often one is enough. The home pictured below serves as an example of a job where two layers of primer were used. The bare wood siding was primed with an oil-based primer for extra adhesion. Then, a latex primer was applied over all the siding to provide it an uniform base for the finish layers. Some climates almost demand a second coating of primer. I've heard about one contractor in Florida who always double primes to guarantee that his work last. In the event that you live near ocean water, I would recommend that you consider doing the same.
Primers highlight surface conditions by pointing out imperfections such as loose fibers in drywall and raised wood grain in trim. You might think that a primer would smooth a surface, but if you run your hand over a primed piece of trim it always feels harsh. That's because primer forces out loose grain as it penetrates. After a dried primer has been lightly sanded, the smoothed surface is ready for the top. (Here is a tip: If you tint your primer the color of the finish coat, you can actually quicken the painting process by reducing the amount of top coats needed. Tinting is mostly used for color changes, although it is also handy for areas like bare drywall.)
How to Prime Interior Surfaces and Ceilings
I recommend using latex primers whenever we can. Ask your paint dealer for advice on the best primer for interior problem areas, including the laundry room and bath, that need a good sealant and a water resistant primer. I've always used alkyd primers in wetter areas of the home, although there are great latex primers that seal about as well. I prime most drywall interiors with latex, especially the bedrooms, living room, and closets. I spray a latex primer on new construction because new properties have sufficient vapor barriers. Also, I can paint an oil-based top coating over latex primer.
Older houses call for room-by-room decisions on what primer to make use of. If the house does not have a vapor barrier or good ventilation, you will need a primer that seals the surfaces and keeps dampness from getting between your surface and the paint.
Latex stain blockers and sealers can be the answer to priming damp rooms in the house. These quick drying primers help condition areas with water, smoke, and tannin stains, and they can be recoated very quickly, sometimes within the hour. Pittsburgh's Seal Grip is a superb latex stain blocker with few VOCs and all the benefits of an oil-based stain blocker. Quick drying alkyd primers such as Kilz have pigmented shellac (with high VOCs) that also works as a stain killer and sealer, but I don't recommend these for latex top coats, the shellac might show through the latex. In case your latex has what's known as “good hold" or hiding properties, it'll maintain an even sheen over primer. You are able to guarantee compatibility by using a high quality latex stain blocker such as Seal Grip.
When it comes to walls, understand that plaster and drywall are different. Plaster is highly alkaline, especially when it's new, and it can leach alkaline salts if it isn't properly sealed. There are lots of primers you may use on plaster, depending on its condition and on the top coat and finish you've planned.
Drywall is much less alkaline than plaster. I prime drywall with a latex primer, unless the top coatings will be an oil-based paint, in which case I'll use an alkyd primer. (I know that we now have perfectly good latex primers for any type of top layer, but old practices are hard to break.) When painting new drywall, I will sometimes add joint compound to the primer for a little texture. Mixed with primer, joint compound also helps even out over any sanding markings or roughness.
Priming Solution For Interior Wood
When choosing primer, you should think about the nature and condition of the surface, the type of paint (alkyd, latex, or epoxy) that is planned for the top coats, and the sort of finish (flat, semi-gloss, or glossy).
Most often I prime interior wood trim with an exterior alkyd primer, which seals new wood and replaces lost water in older wood. There's also good water-based enamel primers for interior wood. Special conditions, such as the high moisture common in bathing rooms and kitchens, may call for a breathable latex primer if you cannot prime all over the wood. When you can completely prime the wood before it goes up, an alkyd primer will protect most of the trim from dampness. Assess conditions like these carefully and seek the advice of a specialist if your job has many different variables
No-Fuss Priming For Exteriors
Even though I prefer latex paint for the outside, I still would rather use alkyd primers on exterior wood. They simply do a much better job of priming bare wood. I'll use an alkyd primer if I know that the house has no major internal vapor problems and that the wood is in good condition (which usually means that it's new), particularly if I had access to the siding and wood trim before it goes on. It's always better to seal all around the wood (but not the ends) to give each piece its vapor barrier.
New redwood and cedar siding, as well as hardboard siding, needs special attention. Redwood and cedar will bleed tannins for a long period, even if the lumber has air-dried for months. Before priming, you should wash out the tannin with a moderate detergent, and follow this with a good rinsing. Redwood and cedar are rather porous, so you might need to hold back a day or two to let them dry. There's a good chance that more tannin resin will seep to the surface, so avoid priming with latex because the resin will bleed through. Instead, use two coatings of any alkyd primer/sealer, and use high quality latex for the final layers. Any staining that occurs after that can usually be washed off with special timber cleaners.
Hardboard siding, new or already coated, presents a special challenge. Having less grain or anything resembling a porous surface makes hardboards such as Masonite difficult to adhere to. In the event the wood is new then pressure wash and rinse it. If water still beads up, wash it again to eliminate all the wax. Seal new hardboard with a specially developed hardboard primer/sealer, such as Pittsburgh Paints Permanizer Plus Wood Stabilizer. When blended with a top coating, Emulsabond makes a great hardboard primer. These and other top quality sealers also work very well on aluminum or vinyl siding, plywood veneers, textured wood, and other composite sidings.
Improved Metal Primers
Every metallic should be cleaned of oil, grease, rust, or any other residue before you prime it, therefore the primer gets thorough contact with the surface. Most metal surfaces can be cleaned with a good thinner. Galvanized metals sometimes arrive from the factory with a stabilizer that can be tough to remove, and could need more than simply thinner. Consult with your paint store if you need to be certain a primer will continue to work on new galvanized metal surfaces.
There are primers for every type of metal. Ferrous metals, manufactured from iron and steel, should be primed with a rust inhibitor. Rust is almost impossible to totally remove unless you sandblast it, and even then small pockets of rust can remain that will grow again under an unsealed surface or the wrong primer. Rust inhibitors totally seal the outer layer from exposure to air. Some companies make reference to these primers as direct-to-rust or direct-to-metal (DTM) primers. Smaller jobs like handrails can be primed with aerosol rust inhibitors such as Pratt & Lambert's Effecto Spray Enamel, which I've got success using.
Other metals, including copper, aluminum, bronze, and brass, should be covered with zinc-chromate primer. Some paint companies have a specific primer for new galvanized steel. Older galvanized metal can be primed with a rust inhibitor like those mentioned previously.
As with any coating, the more time the primer has to flow and contact the surface, the better the adhesion. Quick setting primers don't flow much at all and stay right where they're applied, for good or for bad. A clean surface is particularly important when you use a quick drying primer. Note that some paint manufacturers recommend cleaning metals (and most other surfaces) with a thinner, while others suggest against using any type of solvent cleaner. Read the directions carefully.
An old technique that still is effective for cleaning new or old metals is washing the outer layer with a one-to-one mixture of vinegar and water. Vinegar is an all-purpose, inexpensive cleaner that will also etch a steel material if combined at that ratio. Etching metal works like sanding wood. It gives the surface "teeth" for better adhesion. That same ratio is useful for new rain gutters or uncoated aluminum siding. However, it should not be utilized to clean galvanized metals, because the vinegar will damage the galvanizing.
Primers For Masonry Applications
Whether it's inside or out, masonry usually needs a primer or sealer that will resist moisture and alkalis. Alkalis are salts that leach out over time, leaving a chalky stain called efflorescence. The cause of the efflorescence, usually moisture, must be fixed for alkali-resistant primers and sealers to help. New masonry has to cure for 3 months before you can apply primer and paint it, especially if it's highly alkaline, like stucco.
Sherwin Williams has a masonry primer called Loxon that withstands alkalinity up to pH 13; it could be painted on masonry that is seven days old. Stucco, which is actually tinted mortar and packed with lime, is an ideal surface for Loxon, as is new plaster or poured concrete. Pittsburgh Paints also offers a primer for new, high-alkaline masonry, called Speedhide Alkali Resistant Primer; it's made for oil-based paint. You also can add this primer to cured masonry with a latex top coat, but it's important that you utilize latex only on low alkaline masonry. In these circumstances I've had success adding Emulsabond to the latex for extra adhesion. I recommend it for many masonry applications.
Etching with muriatic acid used to be the only procedure to speed up the drying time of concrete. You can still etch if you are so inclined, although if I never see another box of muriatic acid, that would be just fine. (If it etches concrete, imagine how well it etches epidermis!) Etching requires a bucket, hose, brush, gloves, and complete eye and skin protection, remember a respirator, in particular when you combine the acid with water. Important: Add the acid to water, not the other way around. If you add normal water to acid it will splash and burn up anything it contacts. And mix it in the correct ratio, usually 1 to 3. Make sure you have brushes, sponges, towels, and least one 5 gallon bucket of clean water for emergencies, and another 5 gallon bucket for rinsing.
Reconditioning older, peeling cement floors can be considered a chore. You need to keep them well looked after and recoat them regularly, before they have to be completely redone. Concrete floor surfaces in really sad shape should be sandblasted, or you can use a new system called Peel-Away which makes prepping masonry a bit easier (it's still no picnic). If the floor is in good condition, prep the surface and remove any trace of grease or wax with a good thinner.
For new concrete floors, I would recommend a cement stain manufactured by H&C or Okon; they come in water based and silicone acrylic. My choice is water based stain, since silicon is a wax that eventually will wash off. Concrete stain penetrates and seals without needing scraping or sandblasting, and resists fading much better than a top covering like latex.
Older, pre-painted cement floors need to be repainted with a similar top coating, whether latex or alkyd. A latex top coating is best applied over a standard concrete sealer, but Emulsabond also is effective. An oil-based top layer requires an oil-based enamel or epoxy concrete conditioner. I'd add Penetrol to the primer for a longer lasting bond.
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